Steak Frites With Béarnaise Ish Recipes

HOW TO MAKE STEAK

Steps:

• There are few faster, easier and more impressive ways to get dinner on the table than to sauté a juicy steak over a hot flame, then whisking together a sauce from the coppery drippings at the bottom of the pan. Although the technique for making pan sauce is used here with beef, it is easily adaptable to all sorts of meats, including pork, lamb, chicken, veal and even fish.A proper pan sauce begins with browning the meat. The pan needs to be hot enough to sear the meat and cause the Maillard reaction, which is the caramelizing of the amino acids and sugars in food. After the meat is cooked to taste, it is removed from the pan, leaving behind a seared-on layer of browned bits called the fond. The fond is culinary gold, containing an incredible savory character that forms the foundation of the sauce. To access that meaty flavor, the fond needs to be dissolved into a liquid; this is called deglazing the pan. Technically, any liquid can be used, and water and stock frequently are. But something alcoholic and acidic, such as wine, is better at extracting the flavors. A classic method of building a pan sauce, which we use here, is to develop the flavors in stages. First, brandy is used to deglaze the pan, then wine and stock are added and simmered down until syrupy. At the very end, butter is whisked into the pan to thicken the sauce, giving it a silky texture that helps it cling to the steak for serving. Other liquids can stand in for the brandy, wine and stock: fruit and vegetable juices, cream or milk, condiments like soy sauce and chile paste, vinegars and spirits. Once you've learned this adaptable technique, you will always be able to whisk up a fast and pungent pan sauce from whatever fond your pan has produced.
• Since the earliest bovines met the spears of our ancestors, steaks have been prepared pretty much the same way. The cuts were grilled over a fire to quickly sear what many consider to be the choicest, most tender part of the animal. (By contrast, think of the stewing, braising and roasting necessary for larger and tougher cuts.)Innovations in pans and the creation of the modern stove have changed things slightly, but the goal is the same, which is to brown the outside of the meat while preserving the juiciness of the middle. This can be done on green wooden sticks or hot rocks, over a grill, or in a metal or earthenware pan.But the sauce accompanying this steak has had a more varied history. And it's one that exemplifies the evolution of French cuisine over the centuries.The earliest European sauces, which date to ancient times, were distinct from the meat, fish or vegetables with which they were served, prepared separately and from their own set of ingredients. The reasons were medicinal, rather than for the sake of taste. Based on the theory of humorism, a sauce was meant to balance out the intrinsic qualities of other ingredients in the dish to create a harmonious and health-giving meal. Pork, which was considered to be inherently moist and cold, might be paired with spicy, acidic sauces, to counter any potential upset of humors in the person eating it. By the 17th century, a new French cuisine had begun to emerge. The focus shifted to enhancing the natural taste of foods rather than smothering them in spices and vinegars for purported health benefits. The ancestors of modern French sauces can be found in cookbooks from that era, in which herbs replaced spices, wine and stock eased the reliance on vinegar and verjus, and flour and butter roux, rather than bread crumbs, were used as thickeners. The practice of deglazing a pan of roasted meats to make the base for an elaborate sauce grew in popularity.Over time sauces became richer and more voluptuous, beaten with butter, eggs and flour to achieve a thick and satiny consistency. In the 1830s, Marie-Antoine Carême first wrote about four mother sauces: espagnole (a demi-glace-based brown sauce), velouté (a stock-based sauce thickened with roux), béchamel (a creamy milk-based sauce) and allemande (a velouté thickened with eggs and cream). Auguste Escoffier would later refine Carême's classification, demoting allemande to a subset of velouté and adding tomato sauce and hollandaise to the list.These mother sauces remained central in French kitchens until the birth of the nouvelle cuisine movement of the 1960s. As the country's top chefs worked to simplify the national cuisine, they moved away from heavy sauces. (One of the 10 commandments for the movement, laid out in a 1973 article by the pioneering restaurant critics Henri Gault and Christian Millau, "Vive la Nouvelle Cuisine Francaise": "You will eliminate rich sauces.") Rather than relying on roux as thickeners, French chefs turned to the lighter touch of lemon juice, butter and herbs.That approach lives on. Instead of deglazing a pan to use the resulting liquid in an intricate sauce, cooks now savor the mixture as a simple yet elegant sauce in its own right.Above, a depiction of a Paris provision shop in 1871, from The Illustrated London News.
• Stainless steel pan These are best for cooking pan sauces with a good dose of acidity; enamel-lined pans also work well. Carbon steel and cast iron pans are reactive and could discolor the sauce, though this isn't a deal breaker, so if that is all you've got, use it. But do avoid nonstick pans. Your drippings, upon which the sauce is built, won't brown nearly as well.Meat thermometer It is worthwhile to learn how to test your steak for doneness with your fingers, but it also helps to have a good meat thermometer. Digital thermometers will give you a more exact reading, and they usually work very quickly.Wirecutter, a product recommendations website owned by The New York Times Company, has guides to the best skillets and digital meat thermometers.
• You can use any cut of steak, either bone-in or boneless, to make this classic French bistro dish. Make sure to open a good bottle of red wine for the pan sauce, preferably one that you're happy to finish off with dinner.
• There's more to searing a steak than a hot pan and a good piece of meat, though that is the right place to start. And learning how to use the drippings for a fast pan sauce will help you make the most out of every meal, whether you're cooking steaks, chops, fish or chicken.The French butcher the cow differently from the English and Americans. They divide tough and tender meats, creating high-quality cuts like fillets from the sirloin region (chateaubriand being the thickest, then tournedos, faux filet and the thinnest, filet mignon) and entrecôte from the fore rib region. One of the most desired French cuts is the onglet (hanger steak), cut just below the sirloin region. This said, you can use any good steak in this recipe, either a boneless or bone-in cut. Boneless cuts take less time to cook, so start checking them for doneness before you'd check bone-in meat. Filet mignon, cut from the tenderloin, will give you the softest and most tender meat, but has less fat (and less flavor) than other cuts. Rib-eye and other sirloin cuts are a little chewier, but have a deeper, beefier flavor. You could also use a thinner steak (hanger, strip, flank), but watch them closely so they don't overcook.• You need some fat on your steak. Look for marbling. Fat equals flavor, both for the meat itself and also for the pan sauce.• Seasoning the steak at least 15 minutes before cooking (and up to 24 hours if you keep it in the refrigerator) gives the meat time to absorb the salt evenly. If you season it several hours in advance, you can press herbs and-or minced garlic all over the surface of the steak, then wipe it off just before cooking so nothing burns.• Cooking steak in butter gives the meat excellent flavor. But since butter can burn, it is often combined with a little grapeseed oil, which raises its smoking point. Or you can use all oil if you prefer. Clarified butter and ghee also work well.• For optimal browning, which results in a flavorful pan sauce, get your skillet very hot before adding the meat, letting it heat for at least 3 to 5 minutes. A drop of water should immediately sizzle when flicked into the pan.• The timing of your steak depends on the skillet, your stove and the temperature of the meat when it hits the pan. For rare steak, cook to 120 degrees; medium-rare is 130 degrees. Learn how meat cooked to those temperatures feels when you tap its surface with your fingers, and then use that to guide you in future cooking. For medium-rare, the meat should offer some resistance but not feel firm, which indicates a well-done steak. Rare meat is a bit softer.• Rest your steaks before slicing them. Put the meat on a cutting board and tent with foil. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. This helps the meat reabsorb the juices and will also raise the temperature slightly. Do this every time you cook steak; it's always a good idea to keep those juices.• You must cook the steaks and the sauce in immediate succession, and just before serving. Once you start this recipe, there isn't much waiting around. If you're making this for a dinner party, do not start cooking the steaks until all your guests arrive.• The alcohol in wine and brandy helps dissolve and release the pan drippings, extracting their flavor. While you can also deglaze a pan with stock or water, it won't be as intensely flavorful. Much of the alcohol cooks off as the sauce simmers.• To quickly cook off much of the alcohol in the brandy, light it with a long match or igniter. Just make sure to step back before you do. The flame should die down in a few seconds. If you really don't want to set the alcohol on fire, you can simmer it down for a few minutes instead.• Letting the liquids in your pan simmer until they are thick and syrupy is central to getting a silky sauce. Be sure to let them reduce before whisking in the butter and any herbs.• If at any point your sauce separates and you can't seem to whisk it together into a smooth, emulsified liquid, scrape it into a blender and whirl it for a few seconds. That should fix it.
• A pan sauce is easy to make, but it does require last-minute attention. Here are three sauces than can be prepared ahead of time and go deliciously with the seared steak above. Like hollandaise sauce, one of the mother sauces of French cuisine, Béarnaise is based on an emulsion of butter and egg yolks. It is seasoned with vinegar, tarragon and shallots for a savory edge. To make it: Melt 1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter; set aside. In a heavy-bottomed, nonreactive skillet, combine 3 tablespoons white-wine vinegar, 1/4 cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth, 1 tablespoon minced shallots, 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon or chives, 1/8 teaspoon black pepper and a pinch of salt. Simmer until the liquid has reduced to 2 tablespoons. Let cool. In the meantime, beat 3 egg yolks until they're thick and sticky, about 1 minute. Strain the vinegar mixture into the egg yolks, and beat until combined. Add 1 tablespoon of cold butter, but do not beat it in.Scrape egg mixture back into skillet, and place it over very low heat. Stir egg yolks with a wire whisk until they slowly thicken, about 1 to 2 minutes. Beat in another tablespoon of cold butter, then beat in melted butter in a slow, steady stream until sauce thickens; consistency should be like mayonnaise. (You may not need all the butter.) Taste and correct seasoning, and beat in 2 tablespoons fresh, minced parsley. Serve the sauce warm, not hot. It will keep for up to 5 days in the fridge. Easily made in less than five minutes, this piquant, creamy sauce can be stirred together a few days in advance and gets even better as it sits (which it can do for up to 3 days). To make it: In a small bowl, whisk together 1 cup crème fraîche, 2 tablespoons white horseradish, 1 tablespoon minced chives, 1 teaspoon mustard, and salt and pepper to taste. A decadently rich combination of butter, garlic and herbs, a small slice of compound butter goes a long way on a steak. And leftovers freeze perfectly for up to six months. To make it: In a bowl, mash together 1 stick softened unsalted butter, 1 tablespoon minced shallots or 1 minced garlic clove, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme or rosemary, 1 tablespoon minced parsley or chives, 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper and 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt. Spoon the butter onto a piece of parchment paper or plastic wrap, form into a log and wrap well. Chill for at least 3 hours before using.
• Photography Food styling: Alison Attenborough. Prop styling: Beverley Hyde. Additional photography: Karsten Moran for The New York Times. Additional styling: Jade Zimmerman.VideoFood styling: Chris Barsch and Jade Zimmerman. Art direction: Alex Brannian. Prop styling: Catherine Pearson. Director of photography: James Herron. Camera operators: Tim Wu and Zack Sainz. Editing: Will Lloyd and Adam Saewitz. Additional editing: Meg Felling.
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STEAK HACHé WITH POMMES FRITES & CHEAT'S BéARNAISE SAUCE

Steps:

• Heat the oil in a pan and add about 3 /4 of the shallots. Cook for 5-10 mins, stirring occasionally, until soft and starting to caramelise in places. Set aside to cool.
• In a large bowl, combine the beef, thyme, 1 tsp Dijon and the cooled shallots. Season with black pepper but not salt at this stage (this can cause the meat to dry out). Shape into four patties and dust with flour. Put on a plate, cover with cling film and chill for at least 30 mins (or up to 2 hrs).
• Meanwhile, prepare the frites. Slice the potatoes into skinny chips, tipping into a large bowl of cold water as you go. Drain, then transfer to a large pan and cover with fresh water, seasoning with salt. Bring to a fast simmer, boil for 1 min, then drain well. Tip the chips onto a clean tea towel or some kitchen paper, spread in a single layer so they dry and cool quickly. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
• Tip the chips into a bowl with the vegetable oil and 1 tsp salt. Toss to coat, then spread out over two large baking trays. Cook for 45 mins or until crisp and golden.
• When the chips are about 15 mins from being cooked, heat a large frying pan with a drizzle of oil. Season the patties with salt on both sides and cook for 3-4 mins each side, or until they have a dark brown crust but are still slightly pink inside (or cook them for a little longer if you'd prefer them well done). Transfer to a plate, cover with foil and set aside to keep warm while you make the sauce.
• Return the pan to the heat and tip in the remaining shallots. Fry for 1-2 mins to soften, then remove the pan from the heat and stir in the crème fraîche, remaining Dijon, the egg yolk and tarragon, as well as any resting juices from the beef patties. Season well. Serve the steak with the pommes frites and a green salad, with the Béarnaise sauce on the side.

STEAK WITH BERNAISE

Steps:

• For the sauce, put the Champagne vinegar, white wine, shallots, 1 tablespoon tarragon leaves, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is reduced to a few tablespoons. Cool slightly.
• Place the cooled mixture with the egg yolks and 1 teaspoon salt in the jar of a blender and blend for 30 seconds. With blender on, slowly pour the hot butter through the opening in the lid. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of tarragon leaves and blend only for a second. If the sauce is too thick, add a tablespoon of white wine to thin. Keep at room temperature until serving.
• Season the steaks liberally with salt and coarsely ground black pepper on both sides. Heat a thin layer of olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat until it's almost smoking, then sear the steaks on each side for 1 minute. Lower the heat to low and cook the steaks for about 7 to 10 minutes, turning once, until very rare in the middle. Remove to a plate, cover tightly with aluminum foil and allow to sit for 10 minutes. Serve with the bernaise sauce on the side.
• Note: To make the sauce in advance, prepare an hour before serving and allow it to sit in the blender. Before serving, add 1 tablespoon of the hottest tap water and blend for a few seconds.

STEAK FRITES

Steps:

• Heat 1 1/2 to 2 inches oil in a deep frying pan over medium heat to 325 F degrees. Cut potatoes into thin slices lengthwise. Cut each slice into thin shoestring strips. Place cut potatoes on paper towels. Place 2 generous handfuls of potatoes at a time into hot oil, in 2 batches. Par cook the potatoes 2 minutes and transfer to a towel lined plate. Raise heat to medium high up to 375 degrees F. Allow oil to rise to a higher temperature, 3 to 5 minutes. Return potatoes to oil in 2 batches to crisp them, cooking them to a deep, golden brown color, another 2 to 3 minutes per batch. Remove potatoes from oil to clean towels to drain. Season with fine salt and serve.
• For steaks, heat a large nonstick skillet over high heat. Add a little oil to the pan, 1 turn. Season steaks with salt and pepper. Place steaks in skillet and sear 2 minutes on each side. Reduce heat to medium and cook steaks 6 minutes longer for medium rare, 8 for medium to medium well. Remove steaks to a warm plate to rest. Add 2 tablespoons butter and the shallots to the pan. Cook shallots 2 or 3 minutes, add flour to the pan and cook a minute longer. Whisk wine into pan and lift pan drippings up. Add the last tablespoon of butter and remove the pan from the heat. Spoon wine and shallot sauce over the steaks and serve with hot, shoestring potatoes.

STEAK FRITES WITH BéARNAISE-ISH

Steps:

• Set the steak out at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes. Preheat your oven to 200 degrees F (95 degrees C). Line a baking sheet with a cooling rack or paper towel and set aside.
• Place the potatoes into a Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed pot. Cover the potatoes with about 1 centimeter (1/2 inch) of canola oil, place a lid on the pot and bring to a boil over high heat; this should take about 5 minutes. When boiling, remove the lid and cook, without stirring, for 10 minutes.
• Carefully stir the fries, gently scraping the bottom of the pot to loosen any that are stuck and cook for another 10 minutes, or until golden and crisp. Remove the fries from the oil and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Season immediately with salt and transfer to the oven to keep warm.
• Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Pat the steak dry with paper towel. Rub with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add to the pan and sear for 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until golden brown. Add the butter into the pan along with one clove of unpeeled garlic and 2 sprigs of tarragon. Carefully tilt the pan slightly and spoon the butter over the steak for 1 to 2 minutes for medium, or until the steak is cooked to your liking. Remove the steak from the pan and set aside to rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Meanwhile, peel and mince the remaining garlic, finely chop the remaining 2 sprigs of tarragon and add to a bowl along with the mayonnaise and lemon juice, to taste.
• To serve, cut the steak into 1-centimeter (1/2-inch) thick slices and transfer to two plates along with the fries, a scattering of chives and a dollop of béarnaise-ish sauce. Season with a bit more salt and pepper.

PAN-SEARED RIB-EYE STEAK WITH BéARNAISE (ENTRECôTE BéARNAISE)

Steps:

• Cook steaks:
• Halve steaks crosswise, then pat dry and sprinkle all over with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper (total).
• Heat a 12-inch heavy ovenproof skillet (not nonstick) over medium heat until hot, then add oil, swirling skillet to coat bottom, and cook steaks 5 minutes per side for medium-rare.
• Transfer steaks to a platter and let stand, loosely covered with foil, 5 minutes.
• Make béarnaise while steaks stand:
• Boil wine, vinegar, shallots, and 1 tablespoon tarragon in a small heavy saucepan until liquid is reduced to 2 tablespoons, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve set into a medium metal bowl, pressing on and then discarding solids.
• Whisk yolks into vinegar mixture, then set bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and cook, whisking constantly, until yolks have thickened slightly (do not scramble).
• Whisk in butter 1 piece at a time, adding each piece before previous one has melted completely. Remove from heat and whisk in lemon juice, remaining tablespoon tarragon, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper (or to taste). Serve steaks with sauce.