TURKISH "RED SEA" MACKEREL WITH TOMATO AND PARSLEY
This dish comes from Susie Morgenstern, the Judy Blume of France. When she is not writing novels for teenagers or lecturing around France, she is cooking in her marvelous nineteenth-century house, high up in the hills above Nice, overlooking the Mediterranean. When I visited her, she told me I'd need to climb a hundred steps to reach her home. I did, only to find that they were the wrong hundred stairs! So down I went, and up again. But the two climbs were worth it, and I was rewarded with a spectacular view from the house. Although Susie, who greeted me warmly, does not consider herself a good cook, she is known for her Passover Seders, always welcoming people from Nice's diverse cultures. She learned this Turkish Jewish dish, which marries sautéed parsley with mackerel, from her motherin-law, who came to France from Constantinople. Susie calls it "Red Sea" mackerel because of the red color of the dish. Served at Passover, it evokes the story of the Jews crossing the Red Sea during their exodus from Egypt. When I suggested adding garlic to the dish, Susie paused. "My mother-in-law was no garlic miser, but she didn't put it in this; there must have been a reason." This confirms my belief that traditional foods, handed down from generation to generation, are the last to change within a culture.
Yield 6 to 8 servings
Number Of Ingredients 7
Steps:
- Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sprinkle on the parsley and brown for about 5 minutes, watching carefully, because the parsley can burn easily.
- Stir in the tomatoes, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, and the sugar. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 1/2 hour.
- Cut off the heads and the tails of the mackerel, and carefully remove the fins. Then slice each fish through the bone into four pieces. Nestle the pieces in the sauce, and simmer, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, making sure to spoon the sauce over the fish as it cooks. Remove from the heat, and place the mackerel on a plate. Check the sauce; if it's too thin, cook it down a bit more. Spoon the sauce over the fish, and squeeze the lemon over all. Eat at room temperature.
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