Neapolitan Style Ragu Recipes

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NEAPOLITAN-STYLE RAGU RECIPE



Neapolitan-style ragu Recipe image

Sometimes, listening to the pundits and ponderers, I get the feeling that cooking is my duty. It's good for the environment; it's good for my health; it's good for society; it's good for my family; it's good for the small farmers and food producers who depend on my business.But though all of those things are doubtless true, the one reason for cooking I rarely hear mentioned is that it's just plain fun.Granted, that's not always true. Tuesday at 8 p.m. after I've gotten off the Blue Line hungry and tired from a long day at work, stove-time does not seem remotely recreational, even for me.But other times it certainly does. Of course there's the pleasure that comes from feeding family and friends. But there's also the joy that comes with immersing yourself in a project. My brother-in-law works on cars for fun and my brother builds furniture. Me? I cook.And there are few dishes that are more pleasurable to make than ragu. Make no mistake: As wonderful as ragu is to eat, it's just as much fun to fix.This is fall food at its best: slow cooking that develops deep, harmonic flavors. It's the perfect project for a lazy weekend day when you don't have much else planned. Cook a little. Go out to the garden and pull a weed. Come back in and give things a stir. Head for the couch and catch up on the game and your nap. This can go on all day.Ragu is sometimes misunderstood. Most simply, it is a meat-based pasta sauce. But the definition goes deeper than that. Many sauces have meat in them, but ragus are based on meat. The juices of the meat that has cooked in them are fundamental to the sauce. That's the reason old-time East Coast Italians refer to ragus as "gravy."They're not necessarily tomato-based sauces, either. In fact, the most classical version of the best-known ragu, the one from Bologna, can be made with either no tomato or very little. Very delicate, it is, with milk and veal.--Building a dish"Delicate" is not exactly a word I would choose to describe my favorite ragu -- based very loosely on a recipe by Jeanne Carola-Francesconi in her classic "La Cucina Napoletana." This is a powerful, deeply flavored sauce built on long, slow cooking. Oh, and four types of pork.Dishes like this are constructed more than they are cooked. No slap-dash sizzle-and-deglaze here. Each step must be given the time it deserves. But at the end it all comes together with an almost orchestral power.Start by sauteing the soffrito -- a chopped paste of pancetta, prosciutto, onions, parsley and garlic. Add a big chunk of pork. Loin is traditional but I think the loins we get in this country are just too lean for braising -- you're better off with a hunk of pork shoulder or butt. If it comes with the bone, remove it and tie the roast into a uniform shape. I've also made this with meaty pork country-style ribs and though they cook a bit more quickly, they're really good.Brown the meat slowly. It'll take an hour to an hour and a half. Add about a half-bottle of red wine and continue to cook, turning the meat whenever you have the energy. The meat will slowly braise and the wine will reduce to a thin, intensely flavored syrup. Count on another hour to an hour and a half.Now it's time for the tomato paste. This is a key step and not to be ignored because of silly prejudice. Too often, tomato paste is regarded as a bad cook's crutch, but when it is handled correctly, it adds real depth to a ragu. The trick is to add it slowly, stirring it into the sauce and letting it caramelize and brown thoroughly. The color should be brick, not bright red.Add more tomatoes and keep stewing until a carving fork slides easily into the meat. You want the roast to be almost shreddable. This can take a couple of hours, and remember that the meat won't become tender all over at the same time -- check in several places to make sure it's thoroughly done.When the roast is cooked, remove it from the sauce and set it aside. In Italy, a ragu made this way is usually served in separate courses -- pasta with sauce first, then the meat as a main course, usually served simply with some kind of complementary vegetable dish (I've always loved the term contorni -- loosely translated, a vegetable dish that fits the flavor contours of the main course). You want something a little bitter to offset the richness of the meat, maybe braised broccoli rabe, or mustard or dandelion greens?But wait, the sauce isn't done cooking. There's still one more pork to go. Crumble some good fennel-flavored Italian sausages into the sauce. Slit and remove the skins and squeeze small chunks between your thumb and forefingers to flatten them slightly. After this has cooked slowly for about an hour, the dish should be deep, dark and ready to serve.Or not. At this point you can also refrigerate it and reheat it gently when you want. Maybe after the game. Or after your nap. Whichever comes first. Relax, it's fall and this is supposed to be fun.

Provided by Russ Parsons

Categories     MAINS

Time 6h

Yield Serves 6 to 8

Number Of Ingredients 16

2 pounds boneless pork butt, in 1 piece
2 teaspoons salt, divided, more to taste
Pepper
2 tablespoons finely minced parsley
1 pound onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic
1/3 cup chopped pancetta
1/4 cup chopped prosciutto
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cups dry red wine
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
1 cup crushed tomatoes or tomato puree
1/2 pound Italian sausage, crumbled
1 pound dried pasta, such as rigatoni, penne or fusilli
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more on the side

Steps:

  • Season the pork all over with 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste.
  • In a food processor, chop together parsley, onions, garlic, pancetta and prosciutto to make a very coarse paste.
  • Heat the olive oil in a casserole over medium-low heat. Add the seasoning paste and another teaspoon of salt and cook until the paste is fragrant and no more liquid appears when it is stirred, about 7 minutes.
  • Add the pork roast, cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook, turning every 15 minutes, until the meat is lightly browned and the onions have begun to color, about 1 hour.
  • Add the red wine, loosely cover and continue cooking until the wine reduces to a thick sauce, about 1 hour, stirring occasionally. If, after 1 hour and 15 minutes, the wine has not reduced sufficiently, remove the roast to a plate, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook the sauce until it thickens.
  • Over low heat, stir in the tomato paste, 2 or 3 tablespoons at a time, stirring in each addition until it mixes into the sauce and darkens to a brick color. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, return the roast to the pan if previously removed, and cover and continue to cook, turning the meat every 30 minutes and stirring the sauce until the meat is tender enough to be easily pierced with a meat fork, 2 to 2 1/2 hours. If the sauce dries out too much and the meat begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, stir in a tablespoon or two of water.
  • Remove the roast to a plate and keep warm until ready to serve. Crumble the Italian sausage into the sauce and cook until the sauce is extremely dark, unctuous, shiny and thick, stirring occasionally, about another hour. (The dish can be prepared to this point and refrigerated overnight.)
  • Cook the pasta in plenty of rapidly boiling, heavily salted water. Warm the sauce if it has been refrigerated.
  • When the pasta is cooked but still slightly chewy, drain it and toss it in a bowl with the butter. Spoon over half of the sauce and toss just to coat lightly. Transfer to a serving bowl and spoon more sauce over top. Sprinkle over the Parmigiano-Reggiano and pass more on the side.

NEAPOLITAN RAGU



Neapolitan Ragu image

Provided by Tyler Florence

Categories     main-dish

Time 3h25m

Yield 8 servings

Number Of Ingredients 30

Extra-virgin olive oil
8 Ultimate Meatballs, recipe follows
2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
1 tablespoon black peppercorns, plus freshly ground black pepper for seasoning
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
1 rack 8 pork spare ribs, cut into 2 to 3-rib pieces
1 (2 pound) boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2 pieces (so it cooks at the same time as the ribs/meatballs)
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 sprigs fresh oregano
4 medium carrots, roughly chopped
1 large onion, roughly chopped
2 ribs celery, roughly chopped
2 cups dry red wine
3 (28-ounce) cans tomatoes (recommended: San Marzano)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 pounds spaghetti, cooked al dente in salted water
1 cup roughly chopped raisins
1 cup toasted pine nuts, roughly chopped
1 cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 small to medium onion, chopped
2 small garlic cloves, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
3 thick slices firm white bread, crust removed, cut into cubes (about 2 cups)
3/4 cup milk
1 1/2 pounds ground beef
1 1/2 pounds ground pork
1 large egg
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Steps:

  • Heat the oven to 350 degrees F.
  • Set a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add a 3-count of olive oil and gently brown the meatballs. Meanwhile, with a mortar and pestle, grind the salt, black peppercorns and fennel seeds with some olive oil into a grainy paste. Rub the ribs and shoulder with the mixture.
  • Remove the meatballs with a slotted spoon and set aside on a paper towel-lined plate to drain. In the same pot, brown the shoulder pieces and ribs, in batches. Alternately to save time, roast the ribs in a preheated 500 degree F oven for 10 to 15 minutes while you brown the shoulder pieces in the pot.
  • Remove the shoulder pieces and ribs to the meatball plate and let rest.
  • Add a little more olive oil to the pot and add the thyme, oregano, carrots, onion and celery. Stir it around and scrape up the bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Cook the vegetables until they are slightly softened and have some nice color. Add the wine, tomatoes and tomato paste and mix well, scraping up any brown bits on the bottom. Nestle the pork shoulder pieces back into the middle of the pot then arrange the ribs around the sauce. Finish by placing the meatballs in the gaps (some of the pieces will be sticking out from the sauce but that's perfectly fine as it will roast and caramelize). Use a spoon to baste everything well, cover, then put the pot into the oven and roast until the pork is tender and the meat is just falling off the rib bones, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
  • For the topping: Combine the chopped raisins, toasted pine nuts and parsley in a small bowl.
  • Use a slotted spoon to remove the meatballs and ribs to a large platter. Remove the pork shoulder pieces from the pot and allow to rest for 10 minutes before slicing into bite-size pieces and adding them to the platter. Puree the sauce in a food processor then add it back to the pot and set over medium heat. Reduce the sauce until it is rich and thick, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, if needed. When the spaghetti is cooked, drain and add to a medium bowl. Spoon a little sauce over the spaghetti and the remaining sauce over the platter of meat. Garnish the meat platter with the raisin mixture and serve.
  • Heat 3 tablespoons oil in an ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and parsley and cook until the vegetables are soft but not colored, about 10 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and let the mixture cool.
  • Add the bread to a medium bowl and pour in the milk. Let the bread soak while the onions are cooling. Combine the meats in a large bowl. Add the egg and cheese and season generously with salt and pepper. Use your hands to squeeze the excess milk out of the bread and add it to the bowl along with the cooled onion mixture. Gently combine all the ingredients with your hands until just mixed together. Don't overwork the mixture or the meatballs will be tough. Divide the mixture into 8 equal pieces and shape them into 8 nice looking meatballs. Refrigerate until ready to cook.

RAGU NAPOLETANO (NEAPOLITAN MEAT SAUCE)



Ragu Napoletano (Neapolitan Meat Sauce) image

A Mario Batali recipe, to accompany 'Timpano di Maccheroni (the Mythic Pasta Dome)', recipe #85372. When making this, I ended up with ground chuck instead of the regular boneless. I opted not to remove this from the recipe, nor the sausage, which I crumbled. They gave it a nice texture, so just go with whatever you are able to get.

Provided by skat5762

Categories     Sauces

Time 33m

Yield 3 quarts

Number Of Ingredients 10

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 lb boneless veal shoulder, cut into chunks
1/2 lb boneless beef chuck, cut into chunks
kosher salt
fresh ground black pepper
1 onion, finely chopped
3/4 cup dry red wine
2 (28 ounce) cans peeled plum tomatoes, with juice,passed through a food mill
1/2 lb italian sweet sausage (I used hot)
1 pinch hot red pepper flakes

Steps:

  • In a large pasta pot or Dutch oven, heat the oil until smoking.
  • Season the veal and beef with salt and pepper to taste and sear 5 or 6 pieces at a time over medium heat, until dark golden brown.
  • Remove to a plate and repeat with remaining meat chunks (if using ground chuck, be sure to drain any excess grease from pan).
  • Add the onion to the pan and sauté, scraping the pan with a wooden spoon to loosen any brown bits.
  • Cook until the onions are golden brown and very soft, about 10 minutes.
  • Add the wine, browned meat chunks, tomatoes, sausages, and pepper flakes and bring to a boil.
  • Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook 2 ½-3 hours, stirring occasionally and skimming off the fat as necessary.
  • Remove from the heat and remove meat and sausages from sauce.
  • Cover well and save for another meal.
  • Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and allow to cool.

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