Carciofi Alla Giudea Recipes

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CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIA



Carciofi alla Giudia image

It was nearly eleven on Saturday and Fernando was standing under the open roof in the rain, tender, silvered glissades of it plashing quietly, as it has for two thousand years, onto the black and white marble of the temple floor. He, not minding, stood directly in the puddle, its depths caressing the tops of his shoes, looking up at the sky like a child in wonder, the water settling in fine mists on his cheeks and eyelids. He turned fifty that morning in the Pantheon. His spiritual birthday thus celebrated, he pronounced that his carnal festival was to be solemnized in not less than six of his preferred ostarie/trattorie/ristoranti. Fernando wanted to eat artichokes. More, he wanted an artichoke crawl-a critical journey up and down the vicoli (narrow streets), an earnest search for great, golden-green, crisped Roman roses-as many of them as he might vanquish in a day and its evening in a half dozen genuine houses-we were in search of the one perfect carciofo alla giudia. Ten years ago, I might have propelled him into the arms of the trattoria da Giggetto, when I was still convinced of the authenticity of its cooking. Sidled up as it is to the edge of the Portico d'Ottavia, perhaps it was only the taberna's majestic old neighbor that wooed me. Fernando had his own ideas. At midday, we made quick aperitivi e antipasti visits to Arancio d'Oro in Via Monte d'Oro and La Campana in Vicolo della Campana, taking only one or two artichokes and a glass of white wine. We would settle in at Agata e Romeo in Via Carlo Alberto for a proper lunch that would start with another of the little beauties. The evening's gallop would open at Tram Tram in Via dei Reti before a stint at Il Dito e la Luna in Via dei Sabelli, where we would crunch on more fried thistles. Our palates veneered in stainless steel, our bellies convulsing, plumped, we brushed sea salt and crisp freckles from our lips and our chests and stepped at last inside the dimmed sanctum of Piperno in Via Monte dei Cenci. Murmuring something to our waiter about not having much appetite, he assured us that he would carry to us only those plates that could titillate a dead man. He started us with a salad of puntarelle-a thick-bladed wild grass collected in the Alban hills- glossed in sauce of anchovies. Then came the misty comfort of stracciatella, chicken broth scribbled with a paste of egg and pecorino. Expert by now, able to whiff their very presence from twenty meters, we knew then the artichokes were only moments away. He set them down, clucking over their beauty, assuring us their salty vaporousness would coax our hunger. He was right. We continued with la coda alla vaccinara-oxtail stew-abbacchio-roast suckling lamb-a few crumbles of a hard, piquant pecorino pepato-peppered pecorino-a soft brown pear, and sealed it all with a great fluff of roasted chestnut mousse that we ate with small silver spoons.

Yield serves 4

Number Of Ingredients 5

6 to 8 cups peanut oil
4 to 8 globe artichokes, with several inches of their stems intact
Juice of 1 lemon
Fine sea salt
Freshly cracked pepper

Steps:

  • Select carefully the vessel in which you will fry the artichokes, as half their bulk must be immersed in the hot oil to cook them properly. In a large pot or deep fryer, warm the oil over a medium flame to ensure it heats evenly, without cold spots. Peel the artichoke stems to reveal their tender cores, tear away the hard petals, and trim the tips of the softer petals. Immerse the artichokes in very cold water, acidulated with the lemon juice, for 1/2 hour.
  • Remove the artichokes from their acidy bath, drying them carefully on absorbent paper towels.
  • Hold each artichoke by its stem or its stem end and forcefully slam it down onto a wooden board or marble slab to flatten it, spreading out its petals. Tuck generous pinches of sea salt and pepper between its petals.
  • When the oil is very hot-but not at the maximum temperature of your deep fryer-place as many of the artichokes as will fit in the pan, stems up, leaving ample space for each of them to float about freely. Fry the artichokes for 6 to 7 minutes, turning often with tongs. Raise the heat to its maximum level and fry the artichokes for an additional 6 minutes, or until they've blossomed into great, bronzed, green roses.
  • Remove the artichokes from the oil to rest a moment on absorbent paper towels and then mist them-using a plant mister-with iced, sea-salted water, the spritz ensuring the fried thistles' delectable crunch.
  • Serve them as fast as you can, but only to people who are excited to eat them.

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