Mother Dough Recipes

BAKING ESSENTIALS: PASTA MADRE (MOTHER DOUGH)

Steps:

• PREP/PREPARE
• The Back Story If you have ever baked bread, you understand that in order for the bread to rise it typically needs yeast. Yeast is a sugar-eating fungus. It digests food to obtain energy for growth, and those little critters favorite food just so happens to be sugar in all its various forms. The end result is called fermentation, and produces carbon dioxide gas, and ethyl alcohol. In bread baking, when yeast ferments the carbon dioxide gas cannot escape because the dough is elastic and stretchable. As a result of this expanding gas, the dough inflates, or rises, and the ethyl alcohol (plus other compounds) produced during fermentation, create the unique flavors and aromas you associate with yeast-leavened breads. Mmmmmm So, we purchase packets of yeast and use them in our baking. Pretty basic stuff.
• Active versus Instant Yeast Active dry yeast and instant (or rapid rise) yeast are the two most common yeasts available to home bakers. There are others; however, we do not need to discuss them at this time. The two yeasts can be used interchangeably in recipes, but with one main difference. Active dry yeast needs to be dissolved in water before using; while instant yeast can be mixed right into the dough. I prefer baking with active dry yeast, because I want to know that my yeast is alive and ready to do its thing... And that is called proofing.
• Proofing Yeast Take the water, or liquid you are using to make your bread, and warm it up to about 110f (43c). Add a little bit of sugar, and then the yeast. Give it a stir and wait about 10 minutes. If the top of the liquid looks foamy, your yeast is good... add it to the recipe. On the other hand, if nothing happens, your yeast is dead. Give it a proper burial and buy some good yeast. FYI: You can store yeast in the freezer, and it will extend its life far beyond the expiry date.
• What the Heck Has All This to Do with a Pasta Madre? Well, I am glad that that you brought up that very critical question. A tradition pasta madre, or sourdough starter, does not use any prepackaged yeast; it gets its yeast from the flour and the air around it. I am going to tell you something scary, and it just might keep you up at night; however, it must be told. The yeast fungus is everywhere; even in the air you inhale. When you make a traditional pasta madre, you mix flour with water, and a smidgen of sugar, and let them sit, covered, on your counter for about a week. The natural yeast in the air, and the flour work their magic and make that wonderful yeasty mother dough, we all know and love.
• What is Different about this Recipe? For this recipe we are going to cheat by adding some store-bought yeast. It is not going to be the same as creating your own starter, and feeding it on a regular basis, but you can have great pasta madre in as little as 3 hours. For all you professional bakers out there, please cover your ears and pretend you did not hear me say that.
• What about Potato Water? Potato water is one of those baker's secrets. If you use potato water; as opposed to regular water, you baked goods will come out fluffier, and moister. To make potato water, cut up a potato or two, and boil them in water. Then, use the potato water in your baked goods... plus you can make mashed taters. It is a win-win.
• Gather your ingredients (mise en place).
• If you are using active dry yeast, add it and the sugar to the warm potato water and wait about ten minutes.
• If the yeast proofs, add the flour and whisk to combine.
• It should look like a pancake batter... thick but pourable.
• Cover and let sit on the countertop for a minimum of 3, and up to 48 hours.
• The longer you let it ferment, the deeper the flavors will become... think sourdough.
• PLATE/PRESENT
• Use as you would any starter dough in baking. Enjoy.
• Keep the faith, and keep cooking.

MOTHER DOUGH

Steps:

• Stir together the flour, salt, and yeast in the bowl of your stand mixer-do it by hand, using the dough hook like a spoon. Continue stirring by hand as you add the water, mixing for 1 minute, until the mixture has come together into a shaggy mass.
• Engage the bowl and hook and have the machine mix the dough on the lowest speed for 3 minutes, or until the ball of dough is smoother and more cohesive. Then knead for 4 more minutes on the lowest speed. The dough should look like a wet ball and should bounce back softly when prodded.
• Brush a large bowl with oil and dump the dough into it. Cover with plastic wrap and let the dough proof at room temperature for 45 minutes.
• The dough is ready to be used as directed in the following recipes. If you do not plan to use your mother dough the day you make it, you can store it in an airtight container at least twice its size in the fridge for up to 3 days. Take it out of the fridge and let it come to room temperature 30 to 45 minutes before using.
• Mother dough is used in Cinnamon Bun Pie (page 152).

MOTHER STARTER

Steps:

• Combine all of the ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer with the paddle attachment and mix on slow speed for 1 minute. Or, combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and use a large spoon or your hands to mix until the ingredients form a rough, slightly sticky ball. Transfer the starter to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 2 minutes, until the starter is fairly smooth and all of the ingredients are evenly distributed.
• Place the mother starter in a clean, lightly oiled nonreactive bowl, crock, or plastic container large enough to contain the starter after it doubles in size. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a lid (don't tighten the lid, as the carbon dioxide gas will need to escape). Leave the starter out at room temperature for 4 to 8 hours (or longer if needed), until it doubles in size; the timing will depend on the ambient temperature and the potency of your seed culture. Once it's doubled, the starter should register 4.0 or less if tested with pH paper and have a pleasant acidic aroma.
• When the starter is fermented, degas it by kneading it for a few seconds, then form it back into a ball, cover tightly, and refrigerate. After a few hours in the refrigerator, vent any carbon dioxide buildup by briefly opening the lid or plastic wrap. The mother starter is now ready to use and will be good for up to 5 days. To use it after 5 days, you must refresh all or part of the mother starter, as described below.
• Whenever the mother starter gets low, rebuild it (also called feeding or refreshing it) using 4 ounces (113 g) of the old starter and repeating the instructions above. You can even start with as little as 1 ounce (28.5 g) of mother starter and rebuild it in increments over a number of feedings, using the same ratios as for a 4-ounce (113 g) batch. For example, after a few weeks in the refrigerator, the protein and starches will break down, giving the starter a structure or consistency of potato soup. This is okay; the microorganisms are still viable, though fairly dormant (and maybe even a little drunk on the alcohol they've produced, which rises to the top and looks like gray water).
• To rebuild your mother starter, use 1 ounce (28.5 g) of mother starter and add 3 ounces (85 g) of flour and 2 to 2.25 ounces (56.5 to 64 g) of water. This will produce about 6 ounces (170 g) of starter. You can then build all or part of that into a larger piece using the same ratios: 100 percent flour, 33.3 percent starter, and 66 to 75 percent water. So for 6 ounces (170 g) of starter, use 18 ounces (510 g) flour (6 multiplied by 3) and 12 to 13.5 ounces (340 to 383 g) water (18 multiplied by 66 percent or 75 percent-lower hydration for all white flour, higher hydration for all whole grain flour). As you see, you can build a small piece of starter into a large piece very quickly.