NOYAUX EXTRACT
Hidden within the pit of an apricot is a kernel, or noyau, rife with the perfume of almonds, vanilla, apricots and lilies. The fragrance is intoxicating, simultaneously familiar and indescribable, and entirely worth extracting and capturing in a jar to add to preserves, whipped cream, custard, ice cream, cakes and even aperitifs all year long. To disable the amygdalin the noyaux contain, and prevent the body from converting it to cyanide, give the kernels a quick toast before steeping them in the alcohol.
Provided by Samin Nosrat
Categories project
Time P2m28DT10m
Yield About 1 pint
Number Of Ingredients 2
Steps:
- Heat oven to 300 degrees. If kernels are wet, allow to dry, then spread them onto a baking sheet, and toast for 10 minutes. The noyaux shouldn't take on any color. Remove from oven, and allow to cool.
- Place noyaux and liquor in a pint jar. Cover, and place in a dark, cool, dry place for 3 months or longer. Give the jar a shake once in a while when you think of it. Strain extract to remove debris as you use it - the longer the kernels remain in the liquor, the more aromatic and flavorful the extract will become. You can also add more kernels as they accumulate, topping off with more liquor, resulting in an infinite supply of extract.
MAPLE BREAKFAST SAUSAGE
This classic recipe will come together in the time it takes to make a frittata or a stack of pancakes for brunch. You could also try frying the patties in a cast-iron pan alongside eggs in a hole. As the maple-and-sage-tinged fat renders out of the sausage, the bread will thirstily absorb it. You might even want to drizzle a tiny bit more syrup over the whole thing as you sit down to eat, so that each bite of sausage, bread and runny yolk has the perfect blend of savory and sweet. Be sure to use ground pork with enough fat or you'll end up with dry, flavorless hockey pucks. Twenty percent by weight is a good ratio, though 25 doesn't hurt. If the ground pork available to you is too lean, ask the butcher to replace two ounces or so of the lean meat with ground pork belly or bacon. For variations on the sausage, check out these recipes for Italian fennel sausage and Nem Nuong, Vietnamese sausage.
Provided by Samin Nosrat
Categories breakfast, sausages, side dish
Time 45m
Yield 4 servings
Number Of Ingredients 9
Steps:
- Line a baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside.
- Finely crumble the sage into a large bowl. Add salt, black pepper, nutmeg, coriander and cayenne to the sage, and stir to combine. Add pork and syrup to the spice mixture.
- Using your hands, mix thoroughly for 1 full minute, until the pork begins to appear tacky and sticks to the palm of your hand.
- Heat a cast-iron pan over medium heat. Use a heaping tablespoon of pork mixture to make a small, thin sausage patty. Add a teaspoon or so of olive oil to the pan. and cook the patty for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until cooked through. Taste, and if needed, add salt or any other seasonings to the uncooked sausage mixture, and mix to combine.
- Divide and form the remaining sausage into 8 2 1/2-inch patties, placing them on the prepared baking sheet as you go. Cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to come together. (Patties can be made ahead and covered and refrigerated or frozen at this point until ready to use.)
- To cook, wipe out cast-iron pan, and return it to medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil. When it shimmers, add patties in a single layer, leaving space between them. Cook 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until browned on the surface and just cooked through.
- Drain sausages on paper towels. Serve hot.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 330, UnsaturatedFat 14 grams, Carbohydrate 4 grams, Fat 26 grams, Fiber 0 grams, Protein 19 grams, SaturatedFat 9 grams, Sodium 283 milligrams, Sugar 4 grams
APRICOT-NOYAUX JAM
Tart and sweet, tinged with the faint scent of almonds and flowers, apricots are ideal for both eating and preserving. But cooked fruit, no matter how expertly preserved, can never measure up to the flawlessness of its fresh counterpart. To be extraordinary, apricot jam must offer something the fruit, out of hand, cannot. The most seductive flavor apricots have to offer is hidden within their pits. While the kernels, or noyaux, taste bland and bitter, they are rife with the sweet aroma of almonds, vanilla, apricots and lilies. Take the time to crack them from their shells. Steep them into the pot of bubbling fruit, where the heat will coax the perfume out of the noyaux and into the preserves (the heat will also disable the small amount of amygdalin the kernels contain, preventing the body from converting it to cyanide). To intensify the noyau flavor even more, add a generous splash of homemade extract. The resulting jam is an improbable improvement over the natural perfection of ripe stone fruit. Spread the jam on hot, buttered toast. Swirl it into thick Greek yogurt. Slather it between layers of almond or spongecake. Or sneak spoonfuls of it straight from the jar - no one will fault you.
Provided by Samin Nosrat
Categories jams, jellies and preserves
Time 1h30m
Number Of Ingredients 5
Steps:
- The night before you plan to make the jam, pit and quarter the apricots, reserving pits. Trim away any soft or moldy bits. Place fruit in a large bowl or pot, toss with 2 1/2 cups sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt to macerate, cover with parchment or lid and refrigerate. Place pits on a plate in a single layer, and freeze.
- The following day, bring fruit to room temperature before beginning jam-making process.
- Lay a kitchen towel across a cutting board. Place frozen apricot pits on the towel in a single layer. Cover with a second towel, and use a hammer to gently crack each pit open, then remove kernels - the noyaux - from each pit (it's fine if they break into pieces). Discard shells, and place kernels in a jelly bag or tie in a cheesecloth pouch, and secure with kitchen twine.
- Place fruit, liquid and pouch in 6-quart or larger Dutch oven, or similar wide pot, and set over high heat. Set a colander inside a large heatproof bowl, and set aside. Stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, bring the jam to a boil, then carefully pour everything into the colander to strain the fruit, and return the syrup and kernel pouch to the pot. Set fruit aside.
- Stirring constantly over high heat, bring syrup to 225 degrees, or until the rapid boil slows, the bubbles grow large and the syrup thickens, about 15 minutes.
- Return fruit to pot, and allow jam to return to 225 degrees, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. If the temperature gets stuck around 220, the syrup seems to stop thickening or the jam tastes too tart, add up to 1 cup of sugar to balance. Add a pinch of salt if needed to adjust seasoning. The hot jam should taste uncomfortably sweet - once it cools, its flavor will mellow. After about 20 minutes, once most of the fruit breaks down and the jam reaches a slow, thick boil, add the juice of 1 lemon. Taste and adjust sugar, salt and lemon juice as needed - the jam should be mouth-smackingly sweet and tart. Add 1/4 cup noyau extract, if using. Remove pot from heat.
- Remove pouch, and set aside. When it's cool enough to handle, squeeze as much liquid (and noyau essence) from the bag, and stir into jam. Divide jam into 4 half-pint jars, and heat-process to seal, or cover and refrigerate for up to 4 weeks. Rinse off noyaux, and use to make extract.
MAST-O KHIAR (PERSIAN CUCUMBER AND HERB YOGURT)
Yogurt, both plain and with cucumbers, is everywhere on Iranian tables - the thicker and sourer, the better. Mast-o khiar is an everyday side similar to Indian raita or Greek tzatziki, but raisins, walnuts and rose petals elevate this version of the dish, adding a host of different flavors and textures. Dice, rather than grate, the cucumbers to keep them from getting watery, and don't skip the dried mint and dried dill, which add dimension to the fresh herbs.
Provided by Samin Nosrat
Categories easy, quick, condiments, salads and dressings, side dish
Time 20m
Yield About 4 cups
Number Of Ingredients 10
Steps:
- In a small bowl, submerge the raisins in boiling water to plump for 10 minutes, then drain well.
- Remove alternating stripes of peel on cucumbers and trim ends. Dice cucumbers into 1/4-inch pieces and place in a large bowl with raisins, yogurt, fresh herbs, garlic, 3/4 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper and, if using, half the rose petals. Using your fingers to break up any large pieces, gently grind the dried mint and dried dill into the bowl. Stir to combine and adjust seasoning with salt as needed.
- Just before serving, stir in the walnuts and transfer to serving bowl. Garnish with remaining rose petals, if using. Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
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