CABBAGE AND PEAR KIMCHI
Like many food-oriented folk, I have a serious kimchi obsession going. But I didn't want just any old kimchi recipe in this book. And I knew just where to turn in search of a recipe that has a little something extra: my friend Deb Samuels, cooking teacher and coauthor with Taekyung Chung of The Korean Table: From Barbecue to Bibimbap. Deb keeps up on all things Korean, and she told me that not only is it becoming more fashionable to salt kimchi less than traditional recipes call for, but also that the water-soaking process probably can be skipped entirely. She also said one of her favorites is a white kimchi with a main ingredient of Asian pear, which happened to already feature strongly in my Korean Short Rib Tacos (page 92). Why not try a kimchi with cabbage and pear together? Of course, she was right on the money. Look for Korean chili powder, which has a distinctive heat but a mellow, sweet undertone, in Asian supermarkets; for kimchi, there really is no substitute. Once you have your ingredients, this kimchi could hardly be simpler to make, and the slight sweetness and crunch it gets from the pear make it positively haunting. Besides using it on the tacos, use it on Kimchi, Ham, and Fried Egg Pizza (page 107) and Fried Rice with Cauliflower and Kimchi (page 136).
Yield makes about 4 cups
Number Of Ingredients 10
Steps:
- Toss the cabbage with the salt in a large bowl. Let it sit until it exudes liquid and wilts, 60 to 90 minutes. Lift the cabbage out of the excess liquid by the handful, squeeze it dry, and transfer it to another bowl, discarding the liquid. Do not rinse.
- Stir in the Asian pear, tossing to combine.
- Combine the chili powder, garlic, ginger, water, sugar, oyster sauce, and fish sauce in a food processor. Process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl if needed. Add to the cabbage-pear mixture, toss to combine, and let sit overnight, covered and at room temperature.
- Transfer the mixture to an airtight container and refrigerate. Wait at least a few days before using the kimchi, which will get more pungent as the days go by. Use within 2 weeks.
RED CABBAGE KIMCHI
When we think of kimchi we tend to picture the classic kind found in Asian supermarkets, which is made primarily with Napa cabbage stained red from the chili powder and pungent with garlic. Interestingly, although that is indisputably the most popular variation, kimchi can be made with a wide array of vegetables and spices, with regional variations that affect the ingredients used and levels of heat and spice. Here we've used red cabbage for two reasons. The first is because we like its sweet flavor and slightly sturdy texture. The second, more practical, reason is that these fermented pickles are generally deemed ready when enough lactic acid is produced to change the pH from 6.5 to approximately 3.5\. Red cabbage juice changes color at this pH and becomes a bright reddish-purple, giving you a visual cue when fermentation is complete. Kimchi is a surprisingly good condiment for grilled hot dogs. It is a great way to doctor up packaged ramen at home. In place of coleslaw on a sandwich, it can add an unexpected kick to anything from corned beef on rye to pulled pork on soft white bread. Its heat and tang are wonderful for cutting through rich ingredients, and as a substitute for sauerkraut in choucroute, it is utterly delicious.
Yield makes 4 quarts
Number Of Ingredients 14
Steps:
- Cut the cabbage into quarters through its core. Cut the core out of each quarter. Cut each quarter cabbage into 4 sections lengthwise.
- In a large bowl or plastic container, dissolve the salt in the water; then add the cabbage, breaking it apart as you add it to the brine. Use several plates to weigh the cabbage down so it is submerged in the solution. Let the cabbage soak for at least 6 hours and preferably overnight (10 to 12 hours).
- Remove the cabbage from the brine and spin it in a salad spinner to remove the excess moisture. Place the drained cabbage in a large bowl and toss it with the sugar. Make sure the cabbage is evenly coated with the sugar.
- Cut the scallions and the watercress into 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) sections and put them in a food processor. Process until finely minced. Combine the scallions and watercress with the cabbage, then add the grated radish and pears. Toss the mixture to thoroughly combine.
- Put the ginger, garlic, fish sauce, shrimp paste, cayenne, and red pepper flakes in a blender and puree until smooth. Pour over the cabbage mixture, using a large spoon to stir until the puree and the vegetables are evenly combined. Pack the mixture into a nonreactive container and cover it loosely with plastic wrap or a lid. Let the cabbage sit at room temperature for 2 to 6 days, depending on the temperature of the room. (A cooler room will take more time; a warmer room will take less.) The kimchi will be ready when the mixture changes to a uniform purple color throughout. Bubbles will be visible in the kimchi and it will have a pH of 4.5 or lower.
- When the kimchi is ready, pack it into jars and refrigerate. The kimchi will continue to mature and ferment in the refrigerator, though this will happen much more slowly in the cold environment. The kimchi should be eaten within 3 to 4 weeks.
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- Toss the cabbage with the salt in a large bowl. Let it sit until it exudes liquid and wilts, 60 to 90 minutes. Lift the cabbage out of the excess liquid by the handful, squeeze it dry, and transfer it to another bowl, discarding the liquid. Do not rinse.
- Combine the chili powder, garlic, ginger, water, sugar, oyster sauce, and fish sauce in a food processor. Process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl if needed. Add to the cabbage-pear mixture, toss to combine, and let sit overnight, covered and at room temperature.
- Transfer the mixture to an airtight container and refrigerate. Wait at least a few days before using the kimchi, which will get more pungent as the days go by. Use within 2 weeks.
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